I make the drive, two hundred miles, for an insurance inspection. Property taxes, colonoscopies, insurance inspections: all increasingly relevant concepts. The woman says my place is “cozy” while snapping photos with her iPad and raving about the spread she just inspected at Olympic Village. She’s pleasant enough but it still feels like something that could have been accomplished without me; without the miles on my truck. Later I go to the Old Range Steakhouse and receive coveted “welcome back” recognition from the bartender with close-cropped hair. I’m up here more often these days and this is part of my solitary Tahoe routine: a meal at this dimly-lit lakeside joint that plays Chicago blues and serves a decent Manhattan. It’s mid May and the place is empty. Empty and pricey, but what do I care. Not like I’m covering for anybody but me. I make quick work of my prime rib and broccolini and remark that the horseradish (served only upon request) “has a kick.” Close-crop echoes this sentiment. “That it does .. that it does.” I have one more fifteen dollar glass of frugally-poured Cabernet (as I’m sure is instructed by ownership in attempt to make up for off-season doldrums.) And then I’m off, acknowledging his “see you next time” and still relatively sober, having foregone the Manhattan.
I decide to head to the Hyatt Casino past Stateline in Nevada to play some video poker and watch the end of the Giants-Dodgers game. It’s a familiar if not entirely scintillating destination replete with a rustic mountain feel, indoor smoking, and fiftyish cocktail waitresses in sheer black leggings. But on the way a newish roadside bar catches my attention: The Grid. The Grid stands where a dive bar named Tradewinds once was. Its name refers, somewhat depressingly, to what locals have dubbed this small square area of Kings Beach with commercial establishments. A real hot spot. They’ve remodeled and covered every available square inch with bright, flat-screen TVs. Twenty-three of them, the website boasts. I figure if nothing else the game has to be on one of them. I order a Deschutes from the curly haired kid with ball cap behind the bar and he asks if I want to “keep it open.” But I’m paying cash. I later realize the only way to get a second drink in this place, short of extraordinary effort, is to run a tab and “keep it open.” For now I squeeze in on a stool, having politely asked the short, fermenting Mexican dude to my left if it’s available. He acknowledges “yes” but I can tell I’ve ruined his evening. To my right is an older, equally stewed construction type drinking Mickey’s Big Mouths. He’s trying to make time with the tall, half-albino, tattooed waitress just off her shift from the place across the street.
There’s a vibe to these North Shore establishments that’s hard to pin down. It isn’t as simple as the year-rounders resenting the part-timers and there’s a tweaky element that comes with the altitude and Reno passing for “the city.” There may also be remnants of the Wild West involved and hints of the Donner Party having to endure bad table service after a long winter. A guy picking up a large order of chicken wings dumps the entire styrofoam box on the floor. The pale girl with tats, overly loud and confident as the only youngish female in the place, rebukes the construction guy’s advances and inappropriate comments about her undergarments. Her coworker, a seemingly coked-up dude in his thirties, enters from across the street and she fawns over him so the older guy gets the message. I continue to stare at the screen. There are no indications of welcome conversation. Like the Mexican dude who’s now gone, the rebuked construction guy blames me for the state of his affairs. I try for a third time, failing to get the bartender’s attention, and bail at the conclusion of the seventh inning. I’m going off-Grid. “Thanks so much for everything,” I tell the kid on my way out and he offers an oblivious “Anytime.” The line between rejection and vocational incompetence is blurred up here and it’s difficult to tell if they resent you or they’re just high.
The trees sway in a strong wind the next morning as I walk past home after unoccupied, beautiful home. The mountain air fills and invigorates. Strange how somewhere so spectacular can feel so spectacularly off and on. I read my book on the deck and feed nuts to a couple of aggressively friendly Stellar’s jays. To expect more seems sinful.



