Time marches forward and waits for no man. Nowhere is this more apparent than the South Ferry subway station in the chilled wee hours of a Sunday morning in December, half crocked on good whiskey following a rare appearance at a holiday party. I’d appear more if I felt less conspicuous; less alone, sweaty and shiny. Two hours of hotel sleep the previous evening didn’t help. A confirmed bachelor of a certain age not unlike Mad Dog Mattis in a foxhole or Red Buttons at the Captain’s Table in The Poseidon Adventure. It feels necessary to move every now and again, to see the inside of an airport and all of these people doing what people do for no discernible reason. (Well .. “family,” I suppose, but even still.) And further on exiting the party while a Blanche DuBois type thanks me for “manning up” in reference to my 4 a.m. no-show threats and lack of sleep. I slur something about not being a “colossal pussy,” inappropriate for a man of any age and well outside the boundaries of southern decorum. Back to my hotel for a Mexican Xanax and solid six hours passed out atop the covers in my puffy jacket and boots. Another whirlwind trip but what better place for whirlwinding than New York City.
Saturday morning, no sleep and pre party, I’m trying to come to life with a rather long walk along the Promenade and Brooklyn Bridge Park. It’s absolutely beautiful and I don’t use a word like ‘absolutely’ casually. So cold, so clear, so many young industrious sorts wrapped in winter running gear keeping themselves in the game. I shoot phone video from a distance of a guy competitive jump-roping, the Manhattan skyline roostering in front of him. Choppers hover and ferries shuffle by. A few hours and large coffee into my stroll I start following path signs for the restroom to no avail. One points in the direction of the next which points back to the first. I press on to Dumbo and something called the Timeout Market, a “bi-level waterfront hangout showcasing a curated lineup of local food and drinks, plus cultural events.” I live for these sorts of packed, bustling toolfests during the Holiday Season. Unfortunately the unisex restroom boasts a forty-person line stretching past two eateries and a candle shop so I circle the perimeter and find an exit. Outside my pace quickens staving off a pressing urge and prospect of public, outdoor urination in New York City. The lowest of lows. Thinking quickly (for me,) I duck past the front of the long line outside Grimaldi’s pizza and ask a waiter for the facilities. They are vacant, small but clean, warm and private. I once leased an expensive Mercedes AMG sports car and at no moment in those three years did I experience the same joy as in Grimaldi’s head. If I never eat their pizza they will still hold fond space in my heart.
On my last night I’m in a Brooklyn bar listening to a large table of 20 and 30 somethings discussing a recent Trump tweet depicting Chris Christie waiting on numerous incoming Jersey drones delivering McDonalds. “Have to admit it,” one says, “he’s hilarious.” Such sentiment would not have been voiced so publicly a few years back but times are changing. And even if they’re not New York still provides the illusion that they are and that you’re beachside for the tidal shift. Later, in a thin crust pizza joint where the Waterfront Ale House once stood, I shoot the breeze with an old friend who’s never really left New York for too long despite emphasizing how awful it is. Listening to her I’m reminded of the Woody Allen line about two women complaining about a restaurant, the first emphasizing the lousy food and the second concurring while adding “And such small portions, too.” This city can mess with your sleep, rub you wrong and put a Cybertruck-sized dent in your budget. But they keep coming back for more.